Behind the Scenes: Making Fashion Rules

Sign up to our newsletter
  • Languages
  • Deutsch
  • Español
  • Français
  • Italiano
  • British Sign Language

Behind the Scenes: Making Fashion Rules

Go behind the scenes and find out how Fashion Rules came together – from the technical challenges to the curatorial decisions that made it into the exhibition you can see today at Kensington Palace.
Preparing a dress worn by Princess Margaret for display

The 20th century narrative at Kensington

With the recent transformation of Kensington Palace it was decided that a long-term home was needed to represent the 20th century stories of the Royal Family. The Pigott Galleries which are a relatively blank canvas with few remaining historical features were chosen for this purpose and will complete the ambition to tell 350 years of royal history at the palace.

Our dress collections

Our dress collections comprise over 12,000 items of clothing dating from the 17th century to the present day, worn by both royalty and courtiers. Much of the collection is in storage and can be seen by appointment, but as there are so few spaces suitable for its display only a fraction of what we have is visible at any time. The collection is also rich in 20th century material and is the perfect resource for telling the fascinating stories of the monarchy in more recent times.

Making it possible

The Pigott Galleries have been re-designed to make them suitable for showing historical dress - with controls on light levels and bespoke showcases installed so that they can host a series of semi-permanent dress displays over the next 10 years. The first of these is Fashion Rules.
Bespoke Perspex mount for Fashion Rules dress displays
Key to making these displays possible is the new technique for mounting dress, recently perfected by our conservation team. This technique shows the objects in their very best light whilst ensuring they are supported and protected. Each garment is carefully measured and a bespoke Perspex mount is created. The mount is then cut away so that all that is seen is the dress with no distracting neck pieces or dressmakers dummy. These moulds are then padded up and supportive petticoats are added where needed.

This cut-away method is essential for the display of 20th century dress as when you are displaying such recent history it is important to be sensitive to people's memories. Creating a head and face which resembled Diana, for example, would have been inappropriate – it is better to let the dress speak for itself as a beautiful object in its own right.

Curatorial decisions: Who to feature?

For this first exhibition we decided to look at three royal women who have all worn exquisite clothes and all had a personal link to Kensington Palace: HM The Queen, Princess Margaret and Diana, Princess of Wales.

Both Princess Margaret and Diana, Princess of Wales started their families at Kensington and made the palace their home. What many people don’t know is that The Queen and Prince Phillip also spent time here as newlyweds before Phillip went to serve with the Royal Navy in Malta.

Key themes of Fashion Rules

Although we are including film and photography in the exhibition the star of the show was always going to be the dress. Fine and rare couture gowns made by leading designers of the times, including Norman Hartnell, Hardy Amies, Christian Dior, Catherine Walker, Murray Arbeid, and Zandra Rhodes – these were what would lead the displays and the narratives.

The strengths of the collection fell in the decades that the women were at their most fashionable. The Queen in the 1950s, Princess Margaret in the 1960s and 70s and Diana, Princess of Wales in the 1980s. As high profile young women they reflected the spirit of the age and reflected and informed changing trends.

With the help of film and photography we wanted the displays to be nostalgic, stirring memories not just of royal fashions but also of past fashions we all wore. Although the 'rules' of dressing in each period were arguably shared by many of us, what is unique about these women is that they had to balance dressing fashionably within the 'rules' of a royal wardrobe. These unique considerations are the other key aspect of the exhibition.

Selecting the dresses

Preparing one of HM The Queen's Hardy Amies gowns for displayHaving decided on the focus of the exhibition there were now clear parameters for choosing the dresses. They needed to be glamorous and special and importantly needed to reflect the times in which they were worn; fashionable, rather than traditional, dress.

In choosing the dresses we also wanted to reflect people's memories of the times and iconic moments in the women's lives. A number of the Queen’s dresses were worn during her early Commonwealth tours and featured on Pathe news reels about the trips. Princess Margaret's dresses were worn for glamorous photo calls and when meeting well-known figures of the 60s and 70s. The choices for Diana reflected her signature look of the 1980s - with big hair and dramatic party frocks captured by the world press. Where possible the displays are accompanied by photography of the dress being worn. 

Palace Connections

Click on a connection. . .

There are no connections to view on this page

Follow us...

  • Follow us...
  1. Accessibility help
  2. Terms of use
  3. Privacy policy
  4. Site map
  5. Photo library
  6. Media player
  7. Press office
  8. Jobs
  9. FAQs
  10. Contact us

Copyright © Historic Royal Palaces 2004-2013