Changing 20th century British fashions

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Changing 20th century British fashions

The fashion and style featured in Fashion Rules demonstrate not just the spirit and culture of each decade, but the political and social landscape of their times.

(Pictured right: Princess Margaret, Nonsigneur nightclub in Paris, 23 November 1951. Photo: TopFoto/AP)
Princess Margaret, Nonsigneur nightclub in Paris, 23 November 1951. Photo: TopFoto / AP

1950s: End of clothes rationing and return to femininity

The end of clothes rationing in 1949 freed fashion designers from war-time austerity measures. British fashions fell under the spell of the luxurious full skirts of Christian Dior’s 'new look', already all the rage in Paris.

This shift from the boxy, practical silhouette of the 1940s to the exaggerated feminine shape of the 1950s, with its corseted waist and impractical wide skirts, was in keeping with the widespread view that women should give up paid employment undertaken during the war and return to the home.

1960s: British fashion and pop music takes the world by storm

In the 1960s, Paris was losing its dominance in fashion and British fashion and pop music took the world by storm, fuelled by a powerful youth culture with more disposable income and leisure time than ever before. At the heart of this movement was Swinging London, with quirky boutiques on Carnaby Street and the Kings Road selling fashions which broke the rules - born on the streets and in clubs rather than in couture houses.

High fashion celebrated modernity with references to the space age and the use of new and unusual fabrics such as PVC and acrylics. ‘No care’ synthetic fabrics such as polyester flooded the ready to wear market and were the appropriate choice for the faster pace of life. The traditionally feminine shapes of the 1950s were replaced by short shift dresses and a boyish silhouette, a shape not seen in fashion since the 1920s, and reflected  the greater freedoms of a more liberal era.

By the late 1960s, however, optimism turned to concern as rising inflation, unemployment and environmental issues came to the fore.

1970s: Discontent and turning east for inspiration

By the 1970s loss of industry and rising unemployment in Britain saw a hippy counter-culture emerge which looked towards eastern religions. Designers looked nostalgically to the past and ‘ethnic’ garments became popular and were worn, amid widespread media attention, by the Beatles during their stay at an ashram in India. The look was popularised by designers such as Zandra Rhodes and Ossie Clark and seen in the high street in brands such as Laura Ashley.

A more anarchic expression of discontent came with the punk movement in the mid-1970s, which was brought to the fore by Vivienne Westwood and her partner Malcom McClaren. Punk fashion was concerned with transgression and shocking the establishment. Customised outfits, embellished with everyday objects such as safety pins and chains, were combined with bondage wear and Mohawk hairstyles to create an aesthetic that deliberately challenged established ideals of beauty.

1980s: Excess and extravagance

In the 1980s, as office work boomed, women became more prevalent in high-powered positions and ‘power dressing’ women's suits with big shoulders became de rigeur. Glamorous American soap operas like ‘Dynasty’ introduced even bigger shoulders, bigger hairstyles and sparkling embellished evening wear.

Trends such as New Romanticism, which developed in reaction to the hard anarchic style of 1970s punk, saw both men and women sporting frilly shirts, foppish hair and eyeliner. New Romantic pop acts such as Duran Duran and Boy George popularised their looks through music videos shown on the brand new MTV.

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