HM The Queen and the 1950s

The 1950s were a time of optimism and innovation in post-war Britain. The Queen played her role in promoting British design and industry, whilst following the fashion 'rules' of dressing as a monarch.

(Pictured right: HM The Queen on a royal tour. Photo: Getty Images)

The Queen in the 1950s. Photo: Getty Images

Optimism and innovation

In post-war Britain, bomb-damaged cities and rationed luxuries were replaced by a renewed optimism. Innovative British design, inspired by scientific breakthroughs and new technologies, such as microscopy and the discovery of DNA took to the world stage at the Festival of Britain. The Coronation of Queen Elizabeth II, broadcast worldwide to millions of viewers, brought television into people’s homes and a beautiful and fashionable young Queen to the throne. Explorations in outer space saw the launch of the first spacecraft, Sputnik, and technological advancements in the home such as affordable vacuum cleaners and washing machines created greater leisure time.

Designers freed from austerity measures

The end of clothes rationing in 1949 freed fashion designers from austerity measures and saw British fashions fall under the spell of the luxurious full skirts of Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’, a style adopted and popularised by the young Queen and her sister. Queen Elizabeth’s patronage of London couturiers Norman Hartnell and Hardy Amies helped to build the capital’s reputation as the design centre for fine evening gowns and impeccable tailoring.

Gown, early 1950s, probably Norman Hartnell

Left: Evening gown, silk satin with appliqué lace work, Norman Hartnell (probably), early 1950s. Worn by Her Majesty The Queen in the early 1950s

The Queen’s fashion ‘rules’

The fashion ‘rules’ for The Queen’s wardrobe in the 1950s were similar in many ways to those seen in debutante dressing of the time. Evening gowns were long with full skirts and nipped-in waists to form an hour-glass silhouette. Dresses were heavily embellished with intricate beading and lace work and were worn with long white evening gloves.

Norman Hartnell gown worn by HM The Queen on a tour of Pakistan, 1961 As a young monarch, however, The Queen also had other 'rules' to consider. She took up her role as head of the Commonwealth in earnest with lengthy foreign tours, and for these she upheld the long-standing tradition of ‘diplomatic dressing’ – whereby references to the host country were made in the design of her evening gowns – for example, colours of the host country’s flag. Accommodations were also made in her dresses’ designs for the display of royal insignia across the chest and the gowns were usually fashioned in pale colours to ensure that she stood out against large crowds and in black and white film and photography.

As is still the case today, the royal wardrobe was the perfect advertisement for the British fashion industry and it was The Queen’s responsibility to promote British design in her wardrobe choices.

Above: Evening gown, duchesse satin in the colours of the Pakistani flag, Norman Hartnell, 1961. Worn by Her Majesty The Queen at a banquet hosted by President Ayab Khan of Pakistan, on the first day of a six-week tour of Pakistan and India, 1961.