Dressing for court

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Dressing for court

Getting dressed for court always involved dressing up

As the centuries wore on, the type of dress considered appropriate for court became more and more restricted, until it ended up as a kind of uniform. 

Coronets in the Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection, Kensington Palace

Many of the robes and jewels used for coronations have traditionally been kept at the Tower of London, from the 16th century in a specially-built Jewel House.  

Detail, 18th century court suit, Kensington PalaceBy the 18th century, the mantua (a skirt with enormous hoops to the sides) became the most popular style for women, and was still worn at court even when fashion in the wider world moved on.  In 1738, one lady’s mantua was so boldly decorated that Mrs Delaney said its pattern was more proper ‘for a stucco staircase than the apparel of a lady’.   Gentlemen wore beautifully embroidered coats, waistcoats and breeches with jewelled shoe buckles and sword belts.  This style, like the mantua, lingered on in court wear into later times. 

By 1820, ladies no longer had to wear hoops, but a train, ostrich feather headdress and hanging pieces of lace or a veil remained compulsory.  By 1939, and the very last evening on which debutantes were formally presented to the king and queen, the vestiges of these features still remained in their white dresses, although they also reflected contemporary fashion.    
 

The orders for new dresses were concentrated into the season when the court assembled, so the seamstresses and embroiderers had to work very hard and sometimes in appalling conditions.  The royal family themselves would often support British industry, such as silk woven in Spitalfields in London.  

The Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection at Kensington Palace today contains coronation robes, court uniforms and also individual items of royal costume such as Princess Augusta’s baby shoes, Edward VIII’s tropical suit, and dresses belonging to the current Queen.  Princess Alexandra of Denmark (the future Queen Alexandra) and Princess Diana (former wife of the present Prince of Wales) both became style icons whose taste, flair and hair were widely copied. 

Illustration for state visit to New Zealand, Ian ThomasWhen making a dress for a visit abroad, the queen’s designers sometimes incorporate subtle compliments to the host country, such as Californian poppies for a dress worn during a visit to California.   The present Queen has been a great supporter of English designers, including Norman Hartnell and Hardy Amies. 

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