The orders for new dresses were concentrated into the season when the court assembled, so the seamstresses and embroiderers had to work very hard and sometimes in appalling conditions. The royal family themselves would often support British industry, such as silk woven in Spitalfields in London.
The Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection at Kensington Palace today contains coronation robes, court uniforms and also individual items of royal costume such as Princess Augusta’s baby shoes, Edward VIII’s tropical suit, and dresses belonging to the current Queen. Princess Alexandra of Denmark (the future Queen Alexandra) and Princess Diana (former wife of the present Prince of Wales) both became style icons whose taste, flair and hair were widely copied.
When making a dress for a visit abroad, the queen’s designers sometimes incorporate subtle compliments to the host country, such as Californian poppies for a dress worn during a visit to California. The present Queen has been a great supporter of English designers, including Norman Hartnell and Hardy Amies.