As the centuries wore on, the type of dress considered appropriate for court became more and more restricted, until it ended up as a kind of uniform.
Many of the robes and jewels used for coronations have traditionally been kept at the Tower of London, from the 16th century in a specially-built Jewel House. By the 18th century, the mantua (a skirt with enormous hoops to the sides) became the most popular style for women, and was still worn at court even when fashion in the wider world moved on. In 1738, one lady’s mantua was so boldly decorated that Mrs Delaney said its pattern was more proper ‘for a stucco staircase than the apparel of a lady’. Gentlemen wore beautifully embroidered coats, waistcoats and breeches with jewelled shoe buckles and sword belts. This style, like the mantua, lingered on in court wear into later times. By 1820, ladies no longer had to wear hoops, but a train, ostrich feather headdress and hanging pieces of lace or a veil remained compulsory. By 1939, and the very last evening on which debutantes were formally presented to the king and queen, the vestiges of these features still remained in their white dresses, although they also reflected contemporary fashion.
When making a dress for a visit abroad, the queen’s designers sometimes incorporate subtle compliments to the host country, such as Californian poppies for a dress worn during a visit to California. The present Queen has been a great supporter of English designers, including Norman Hartnell and Hardy Amies.
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